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Jack Martin

Colourist operating from the Golden State who excels at silver hair. Among his clientele are Hollywood stars and Andie MacDowell.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

My top pick is a gentle drying cloth, or even a soft cotton T-shirt to towel-dry your locks. It's often overlooked how much stress a regular bath towel can do, especially to silver or chemically treated hair. This minor adjustment can really lessen brittleness and splitting. Another inexpensive must-have is a broad-toothed comb, to use during washing. It protects the hair while smoothing out tangles and helps keep the health of the individual hairs, particularly post-bleaching.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

A high-quality styling iron – made with advanced materials, with smart temperature control. Lightened strands can become discolored or suffer heat stress without the proper tool.

What style or process should you always avoid?

DIY bleaching. Internet videos often simplify it, but the truth is it’s one of the most hazardous actions you can do to your hair. I’ve witnessed clients cause irreversible harm, experience breakage or end up with striped effects that are extremely difficult to fix. I would also avoid chemical straightening processes on color-treated or grey hair. These chemical systems are often overly harsh for already fragile strands and can cause chronic issues or color changes.

What frequent error do you observe?

Clients selecting inappropriate items for their specific hair needs. A number of people misuse colour-correcting purple shampoo until their silver or blond hair looks lifeless and muted. Some depend excessively on high-protein masks and end up with rigid, fragile strands. A further common mistake is thermal styling minus a barrier. When applying styling appliances without a heat protectant, – notably with color-treated strands – you’re going to see discoloration, dehydration and damage.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Thinning requires a comprehensive strategy. Externally, minoxidil remains a top choice. I also recommend follicle treatments containing stimulants to boost blood flow and promote root strength. Applying a cleansing scalp wash often helps clear out buildup and allows products to perform better. Oral aids like specialized formulas have also shown great results. They work internally to benefit externally by balancing body chemistry, tension and lack of vital nutrients.

For people looking for something more advanced, platelet-rich plasma treatments – where a concentration from your blood is administered – can be successful. That said, I always suggest seeing a dermatologist or trichologist first. Shedding may relate to internal factors, and it’s important to identify the source rather than chasing surface-level fixes.

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A Hair and Scalp Specialist

Follicle Expert and brand president of Philip Kingsley clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

How often do you get your hair cut and coloured?

My trims are every couple of months, but will snip damaged ends myself every two weeks to maintain tip integrity, and have lightening sessions every eight weeks.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

Building fibers are remarkably effective if you have see-through sections. They attach using static to your strands, and it comes in a assortment of tones, making it virtually undetectable. It was my go-to post-pregnancy when I had a lot of hair fall – and also currently as I’m going through some significant shedding after having a bad infection previously. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the initial area to show decline when your intake is insufficient, so I would also recommend a well-rounded, nutrient-rich diet.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

For those with genetic thinning in women, I’d say prescription hair-loss topicals. Regarding increased shedding, or telogen effluvium, buying an over-the-counter product is fine, but for FPHL you really do need prescription-strength formulas to see the best results. From my perspective, minoxidil combined with additional ingredients – such as endocrine regulators, blockers and/or soothing agents – works best.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It's ineffective. This idea originated from a limited 2015 research that compared the effects of a mild minoxidil solution versus rosemary extract. A 2% strength minoxidil isn’t enough to do much for male pattern hair loss, so the study is basically saying they provide similarly low results.

Also, high-dose biotin. Few individuals have biotin insufficiency, so consuming it probably won't help your locks, and it can skew thyroid readings in blood tests.

What’s the most common mistake you see?

Personally, I prefer "scalp cleansing" over "hair washing" – because the real aim of shampooing your hair is to clear away sebum, debris, sweat and pollutants. Many individuals refrain from cleansing as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the reverse is correct – particularly with flaky scalp, which is worsened by the presence of excess oils. If natural oils stay on the head, they break down and become inflammatory.

Regrettably, follicular health and strand desires can differ, so it’s a delicate equilibrium. However, if you cleanse softly and treat damp strands kindly, it is unlikely to cause damage.

Which options help with shedding?

For FPHL, your core treatment should be minoxidil. It has the most robust evidence behind it and tends to work best when compounded with other hair-supportive actives. If you then want to try other things to support minoxidil’s effect, or you simply don’t want to or can’t use it, you could try micro-needling (under professional care), and perhaps PRP or low-level laser therapy.

In shedding cases, root cause analysis is crucial. Increased hair loss often stems from an underlying issue. Sometimes, the cause is transient – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will clear up naturally. In other cases, thyroid imbalances or vitamin/mineral deficiencies are the driving factor – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus